Best Location of Water Temp Sensor for Electric Fan
Ok, I've got a 305 V8 that had a mechanical fan, but the PO wired an electric buff direct a toggle switch in the cabin. I'm not keeping that. I'll forget to turn it on.
I bought a JEGs thermostatically controlled fan controller and I plan to establis that. It uses a sensor that threads into a 3/8 interface with a 3/4 arranger. The only ports on my motor are already in use for the temp gauge and heater hosepipe.
Now I picked up a bizarre T-stat housing happening Centiliter that has a 3/4 porthole and the back of it. I also picked ascending an aluminum water pump from the same guy. when I got home I realized that the pump has deuce 3/4 ports on it as well. One is for the heater hosepipe, the other is not in use.
Could I mountain the coolant temp sensor for the fan and avoid the weird housing, or does the sensing element need to be mounted upbound tipto?
I ran one in the unused pipe-threaded hole at the indorse of the passenger-side head.
Except the headers unbroken cooking information technology.
Below the thermoregulator trapping, like you show, would be fine.
Above the thermoregulator (A per most housings in 70's-up Chevy's) would cultivate too, since ~theoretically~ the thermostat would be first step ahead the devotee turns on. Except if the thermoregulator doesn't bald, and you'll get zero fan.
Melt down the toggle switch in parallel, so you put up over-ride the thermostatic switch if you needed to.
I'm intellection, if you threaded into the ticker, you'd be acquiring "cold" coolant from the rad. Which I guess the fan would ensure the coolant coming out of the radian would be truly cold sufficient.
The most important thing is to assay to capture the hottest temperature of the coolant, so that it kicks happening before the engine overheats.
snailmont5oh wrote: The most important thing is to try to becharm the hottest temperature of the coolant, so that it kicks on *before* the engine overheats.
In reality patc that's the high-grade way to establis a temperature gauge sensor, for a fan switch, I think the uncomparable location is the radiator exit. The purpose of the fan is to hike airflow through the radiator if information technology's not reducing coolant temperature sufficiently. This location responds to the airflow through the radiator while the hottest bespeak in the coolant system (usually right where the coolant exits the locomotive to survive to the radiator) doesn't.
I put the fan switch sensor on my Samurai happening the radiator passing, adjusted it so that information technology kicks in when the coolant temperature juuust edges in a higher place normal (when idling patc parked), and IT seems to work advisable.
RossD UltimaDork
1/9/17 3:40 p.m.
In reply to GameboyRMH:
In terms of a intimately controlled system, I trust this is the best solution. Feedback before other noise is introduced.
My choices are thermostat housing or water pump, I put on't have an acceptable port on the radiator itself. For packaging, i'd rather have it in the pump itself.
Weewe pump is a bad post, IMO unless you can get it right at the return port from the rad. T-stat lodging (or a tee in the upper rad hosepipe) is better. A fitting in the glower rad hose would work too.
Get a radiator temp sensor sleeve. It's not actually called that. But IT's what I habituate. Just use the upper radiator hose. Put the sleeve near the thermoregulator. https://web.amazon.com/Aluminum-Temperature-Sensor-Adapter-Silver/DP/B00FY3A2PG
I would order the temp rating of the switch bequeath dictate the best location. A low rated switch would make the fan always make up on if located in coolant going to the rad, and wouldn't turn on until you're already hot if IT's a high temp rated switch connected the rad wall socket.
Thought about it, the factory e-winnow switches in my Jeep are an interesting study in this. IT used 2 switches, both set off at 210*. Single is in the upper radian hose and turns the fan on "low". The second gear is in the lower berth radian hose and turns the fan on "high". That usually equates to astir 210 - 212 on the gauge when low kicks on and about 220 - 225 when piping kicks on.
pirate Reader
1/10/17 12:35 p.m.
I have my fan sensor in a billet aluminum radiator hose connecter with a fitting yap in the buttocks radiator return hose. The sensor turns the sports fan on and off but I have also wired a a sensor overide so that I can turn the winnow on and off manually. To make this work you need a ground wire so I bared the ground wire and inserted it between the billet aluminum connective and radiator hosiery. When hose clamped it is secure, sloshed and doesn't leak. Some radiators experience a fitting hole succeeding to the radiator drain which could also be ill-used for the sensor. Don't know for sure but I think OEMs use this fitting hole for physical phenomenon fans.
I accept my water temperature underestimate detector (electrical gauges) in a fitting hole at the front of the intake manifold which is probably the area of about coolant heat. Some cylinder heads as wel have accommodation holes for gauge temperature.
Well, here's where it tense. in the spic-and-span weird thermostat housing just ahead the thermostat itself.
The switch is a 180 level and will be paired with a 180 t-stat. I'm waiting on some hoses and gaskets before I put it on the car, but it's ready to go.
180 degree switch is too cold for a 180 t-stat. Buff will kick happening when it's warm and ne'er close off. You ideally want a change over that turns on around 195 - 200, off about 5 degrees lower. That'll recoil the fan on when the t-stat reaches fully open and shut it disconnected when things cool a bit (so the fan volition pedal while seated still and normally North Korean won't melt down on the main road).
IT's in reality 185 happening, 170 off. Says it's designed for use with a 180 T-stat.
AClockworkGarage wrote: IT's really 185 on, 170 inactive. Says it's designed for purpose with a 180 T-stat.
Yeah, that's emphatically too cold. Information technology'll kick happening once the railway car is warmed sprouted and then just stay on. You'll never get down to the 170 shut off point. Father't forget, the t-stat starts to open at 180, it's not fully open until about 195.
My analog organisation used an Auto Meter temperature switch, which was actually for an oil temp light-footed. Information technology horny at 210° and off at 185°. The switch was along the ground sidelong of the relay, and I had a distinct ground way of life through a non-automatic switch so that I could strength the fan on for high heat-plume situations (90° autocross days), but temp would turn it on if I forgot, or in normal situations.
Best Location of Water Temp Sensor for Electric Fan
Source: https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/where-does-my-fan-sensor-go/125354/page1/
